Michoacán. Tacámbaro. La Capilla de Sta Maria Magdalena

 This modest church, now serving as the chapel of the eponymous Hacienda in whose lands it is located, is of considerable importance in the history of the region. 

   Founded in the 16th century under the auspices of the first Governor of Nueva Galicia, Cristóbal de Oñate, it represents the  beginning of the evangelization of the area by the Augustine order , a precursor structure to their larger convento at nearby Tacámbaro.

Boasting a surprisingly ornate carved entry that dates in part from its founding, the chapel has been added to over the centuries and was recent stabilized and restored.

The Facade

Although, as mentioned, it has been altered over the centuries, much of its original detailing is intact, notably the west doorway with its carved jambs and layered archway. 

 

St Paul                           St. Peter

 

As is often the case, the apostles Peter and Paul flank the doorway

while another statue, that of the patron St Mary Magdalene, stands in a similarly framed niche over the doorway.

The outlying pilasters are carved in late 18th century estípite style, and capped with winged angel reliefs.

The small atrium is walled, its arched entry framed like the chapel doorway.  The wall is surmounted by a sequence of columns; it is not clear what the columns may have supported if anything; although possibly a colonnaded portería of some kind.

The interior

The otherwise austere single nave is capped by a modern painted ceiling in the style of western Michoacan.

© 2024 Richard D Perry

photography courtesy of Niccolo Brooker

for more details consult La capilla de Cristóbal de Oñate : Santa María Magdalena en Tacámbaro

by Gloria Angélica Alvarez Rodríguez. 2006

Yucatan. Purisima Chumayel

The church of the pilgrimage town of Purísima Chumayel, retains a classicYucatecan front, capped by a soaring espadaña. 

Also of note here are first the gilded main altarpiece, dated 1738, fashioned in a late baroque style with delicate columns and passages of golden filigree.

and then the large thatched side chapel, home to the iconic image of the Black Christ, also known as El Santo Cristo de la Transfiguración, a venerable crucifix which attracts pilgrims from across the region.

text and images © 2024 Richard D. Perry 

Mexico: colonial statues

 In previous posts we looked at colonial statuary from the state of Chiapas. In this post we review a selection of the statues we featured in our other guidebooks*

These are contrasting figures of St Paul, facade statues from the early monasteries of Acolman (left) and Atotonilco de Tula (r)

This remarkably realistic, sinewy figure of St Christopher bearing the Christ Child resides in the convento of Cuernavaca cathedral, formerly the Franciscan monastery'

This richly accoutered statue of John the Baptist, part of the main altarpiece in the monastic church of Xochimilco, is one of our particular favorites.

Next, this strangely elongated high relief figure of St. Dominic appears on the facade of the Dominican church at Tepoztlán.

Lastly this unusual statue of St Christopher, cut into one corner of the church of Santa Monica in Guadalajara, is known locally as El Cristobalón. Of particular interest are the sockets inset into the chests of both the saint and the Christ Child, thought to formerly containing jade or obsidian "hearts"

* Mexico's Fortress Monasteries; Blue Lakes & Silver Cities.

text and graphics ©1992 & 2024 Richard D. Perry

all rights reserved.

Chiapas. colonial statues

 Last year we published images of two exceptional equestrian statues in the city of San Cristobal de Las Casas.

In this post we look at a few other fine statues from the colonial period in Chiapas.

First, the painted image in the Cathedral of its patron St. Christopher. Located beside the 18th century altarpiece in the south aisle, this noble statue of the youthful saint holding the infant Jesus is particularly expressive. The saint's curling hair and beard and his pale melancholy features in the Guatemalan manner contrast with his ornate coronet and flowing brocaded robe

This venerable statue of the celebrated martyr St. Sebastian is now placed in the church of Santo Domingo, in the coastal community of Chiapa de Corzo, formerly the provincial capital.

The saint gestures dramatically, the gushing arrow wounds on his limbs contrasting with his floral skirt, worked in a rich estofado embroidery.

Lastly we focus on a statue of the early Jesuit, St Francis Borgia, one of several portraying Jesuit notables contained in the spectacular early 18th century altarpiece at Teopisca, south of San Cristóbal, and formerly located in the Jesuit church of San Agustín, also in San Cristóbal.

Set on a pedestal in a shell like niche, as with the previous two statues, the saint is wrapped in a sumptuous robe embroidered in rich estofado style.

text and drawn images © 1994 & 2024 Richard D. Perry

all rights reserved

Puebla. Los Reyes (2)

Epiphany! January 6th 2024.

On this feast day of the Three Kings we return to the Pueblan church of Los Reyes to look at the church interior, where ribbed vaults reflect the white and gold nave, refitted in neoclassical style.

 Fortunately for us, some of the original baroque altarpieces remain.

The Main Retablo

This gilded two tier retablo in high Mexican baroque (estipite) style  probably dates from the later 1700s. Prominent, swagged niche pilasters showcase statues of the Three Kings, and John the Baptist set between highly ornamental estipites. 

The center tableau includes the Virgin (babeless) with Joseph and one of the Three Kings (Melchor).

Multiple cornices divide the retablo in layered style.

transept retablo 1.

A large triple tier gilded altarpiece of The Virgin of the Snows (Los Nieves) is fashioned in earlier baroque style with plain, rectangular pilasters on lower tier & Plateresque columns on second tier.

St Dominic?

Sts Francis & Anthony of Padua

Colonial statues of mostly Franciscan? saints rest in shell niches across first tier; three more in niches on second tier, flanked by large paintings.  

The Franciscan arms on third tier (gable) flanks a large center niche (empty) with window behind.

transept retablo 2

This smaller gilded retablo is framed in ornate Solomonic style with vine-encrusted spiral columns enclosing shell niches containing painted statuary of Evangelists.  Dedicated to Our Lady of the Pillar it features large paintings illustrating scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.  

All the best for 2024!

© 2024 Richard D. Perry

images by the author and Niccolo Brooker by permission

Puebla. Los Reyes de Juarez

As is our custom at t his time of the year we like to feature a church dedicated to the Three Kings, or Los Reyes Magos

In this post , the first of two, we look at the town of Los Reyes, a medium size market town in central Puebla state, across the autopista from Acatzingo, SE of the city of Puebla.

This is the first of two posts on the church, focusing here on the ornate facade of painted stucco relief.

Facade:  

The church of the Three Kings presents a triple tier facade in the lacy, wedding cake style of popular Pueblan baroque,; its classical retablo format is enhanced with abundant applied surface ornament of carved stucco in good condition, and usually painted orange or yellow.

Lower tier: classical fluted columns are set on complex, raised carved bases.  doorway. Applied surface decoration - whorls, foliage starbursts, etc - appear on and between columns, and in spandrels over the plain arched doorway. 

Oval medallions between the columns framing stucco reliefs of the  Four Evangelists in folkloric style each with his symbol.

 Matthew                           Mark

 Luke                               John

The second tier features rectangular pilasters with scrolled/foliated ornament densely carved in low relief.   Oval cartouches between pilasters show the two other Evangelists (Mark & Luke) 

The plain rectangular choir window is flanked by ornamental relief pendants

Decorative pinnacles extend above pilasters into the gable area. 

The large center relief medallion shows one of Magi kneeling before mother & child, flanked by two other kings (reyes) on horseback.  A stucco star above at apex, is supported by angels.

The gable is capped by a sinuous projecting mixtilinear pediment.  

Giant pilasters flank the entire facade, ornamented in the same fashion as the upper tier pilasters, as are the cornices between the tiers.A substantial, triple staged tower with prominent tiled dome on south side. 

  The ornamental atrium gateway follows the facade in style.

© 2024 Richard D. Perry

images by the author and © Niccolo Brooker by permission

Yucatan. Santa Inez Dzitas

Dzitas was an important crossroads town in colonial times, located on the old Merida—Valladolid highway, as well as major stop on the former railroad line.

The old church of Santa Inez started life as a 16th century indian chapel It stands in a large, raised walled atrium, its broad stone apse housing the sacristy and friar’s room as well as supporting an impressive belfry which still stands. 

The later main church suffered during the Caste War but has been fully refurbished in recent times.

The wide rectangular front is capped by a triple belfry and corner merlons. A modern sequence of alfiz like moldings frame the arched doorway, small choir window and a recently fashioned heraldic relief of an eagle holding a serpent.

The nave is spanned by a classic Yucatecan log ceiling resting on a series of substantial stone arches, An old stone font rests in the baptistry. The rebuilt casa cural lies to the north east.

text ©2023 Richard D Perry

photography by the author and from online sources