We begin with the principal church of Santiago, with a focus on its sculpted front. The nave is built from rubblestone, braced by exterior buttresses and capped by rows of merlons.
The ensemble is a classic example of 16th century Plateresque style. Outsize winged angel heads seem to fly out from the arch above doorway, barely contained by the Franciscan cord around them.
Grotesque style compositions of cherubs posing in a stylized garden of birds fruit and flowers, all modeled in the round, adorn the jambs.
Haloed statues of Peter and Paul occupy Gothic flavored niches to either side of the doorway, whose canopies are carved with crouched animals and winged cherubs.
The other feature of interest is the rose window overhead, possibly the earliest such example in Mexico, whose intricate tracery adds a touch of refinement to the rough masonry of the upper facade,
Unusually, no image of the patron saint appears on the facade, although a worn relief of the Franciscan stigmata on the stairway wall beside the church (red arrow) indicates its Franciscan origins. A larger related relief in better condition can be seen at nearby Apaxco
Text, photographs and graphics © 2024. by Richard D. Perry
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