Yucatan. Muna

church from the south

Once ringed by defensive ramparts Muna guarded the approaches to the Sierra region in pre conquest times. The imposing mission stands squarely on a former Maya platform overlooking the town plaza.

The first mission here was a visita of nearby Ticul, attaining full mission status in 1609 with the addition of the convento, whose arcaded entrance, is now built into the Soledad chapel on the north side of the church. The cloister, set behind the church is typical for Yucatan, with sundials set on all sides.

 

former porteria

cloister with sundials

north side
The immense church of La Asunción dates from the mid 1600s. A dedicatory plaque dated 1653 is carved above the west door. Other dates: 1691 over the choir arch, 1692 above the side entrances and 1708 high on the facade, commemorate the completion of later work.

Muna’s broad facade is distinguished by its richly textured stonework setting the style for many others in the region. The simple west doorway and tiny choir window are almost lost in the mass of masonry whose courses are studied with fragments of ancient Maya carving. Huge flanking buttresses, extending beyond the single nave, terminate in a pair of  lofty belfries linked by an eroded baroque parapet.

maya reliefs

The church interior suffered much abuse during the Revolution and today remains very spartan; however a late colonial pulpit still stands in the nave bearing a relief of the Franciscan crossed arms and ornamented with shells crowns and gilded arabesques

A charming folk altar adjoins the sanctuary on the south side where a doll like Virgin with shiny black tresses, clad in a huipil occupies a  glass fronted niche. 

As with other Yucatan church fronts, Muna has been painted red in recent years.

text © 1998 & 2025 Richard D. Perry. Images by the author.

Morelos crosses: Temimilcingo

 

Temimilcingo *

On the Small Round Stone Column

Possibly a remnant from the early Franciscan tenure of this little mission near Tlaquiltenango, before its handover to the Dominicans in the later 1500s, the rustic carved atrium cross is one of our favorites in the region.

Raised on a high base, set with corner merlons as at Cuernavaca, the cross is set at a slight angle on a box pedestal carved with crossbones. 

Instead of Cuernavaca’s cuauxicalli basin, a larger, arched cavity or sepulcher extends deep into the base at the front—still a receptacle for offerings.

 

upper                            lower

Unlike most other Morelos examples, the cross is carved with a full assortment of Passion reliefs, packed tightly between the raised outlines. 

A worn, spiny Crown covers the axis and a trio of angled Spikes with round, drilled bases appears on the arms and lower shaft, although a propeller like relief on the left arm may be the only representation of an actual Wound.

Other objects on the shaft include three tumbling Dice beside an elongated Column with a Rooster. At the foot, a corn plant springs from an oval ring. An indistinct inscribed plaque transfixes the head of the cross.

Four profile heads adorn the cross. Two small heads are outlined in the outer corners of each arm. The head of Judas appears on the upper shaft, dangling a rope and purse, flanked by rows of silver Coins. A fourth head at the foot of the cross vomits an angry speech scroll.

text © 2024 Richard D. Perry

color images by the author and © Niccolo Brooker