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Friday, November 21, 2025

Mexico. Santiago Atzacoalco. Where the waters are held back


Now lost in the sprawl of Mexico City north of the Basilica of Guadalupe, Atzacoalco once enjoyed a unique place in history. Named in the Aztec Codex Siguenza, Atzacoalco was a lakeside community, the site of an ancient barrier or dike that held back the brackish waters from Lake Texcoco. The site was employed during the Conquest by Hernán Cortés to house the boats for his historic assault on Tenochtitlan (las Atarazanas)

An early Franciscan mission dedicated to Santiago was established there in 1531, later ceded to Carmelites (1586)  and then to the Augustinians (1607?). Finally, it was secularized in 1750.

The 16th century church front was later blocked by a new, inappropiate, facade although the old lateral entry remains.

The Cross

Formerly in the cemetery but now in plaza?, this venerable carved cross is similar to the Guadalupe cross in style (see previous post), altho smaller, and possibly by the same hand. 

The beautifully modeled, melancholy head of Christ stands at crossing with two crowns; one on the brow and another, larger, limper one draped around the neck of the cross, over a priest's stole. 

Streaming Wounds with large spikes occupy the outer arms as at Guadalupe.

The finely carved and integrated composition of shaft reliefs include a banded pillar with rooster atop and below, a substantial chalice with the Host emerging, here inscribed with a cross and IHS initials.  Sun & Moon can be seen on the sides along with several other Instruments & Passion symbols, including a scimitar severing Malchus' ear.

Abbreviated or damaged petaled finials cap the arms.  

Old photographs show a florid INRI crest with pomegranates and cherubs heads, as at Guadalupe.  This is now missing.

©2025 Richard D. Perry. color photo by the author

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