Tlayacapan: the barrio chapels 1

For this post, the first of three, we return to Tlayacapan to review some of the numerous barrio chapels that surround the main priory of San Juan Bautista.  * In view of the September 19 earthquake in the region, during which Tlayacapan was hard hit, we are updating this survey to include new information and pictures, as they become available, on any damage caused to these historic chapels. 

San Juan Bautista Tlayacapan before the 9/19 earthquake (© Felipe Falcón)

THE CHAPELS OF TLAYACAPAN

Tlayacapan is best known for its venerable Augustinian fortress monastery of John the Baptist (above), whose convento is the location of spectacular 16th century religious frescoes, as well as a local museum filled with colonial art treasures.
   Less well known are the numerous barrio chapels of Tlayacapan. Originally 26 in number, some have disappeared or are in ruins. 18 currently function and more are being gradually restored and coming back into use. 

   While some are simple, even humble structures, several of the chapels are surprisingly elaborate with decorative facades, towers, espadañas and ornamental gateways, many dating from colonial times.

Ancient Tlayacapan

In Aztec times the village was divided into four calpulli, or barrios: north, south, east and west, each with its teocalli, or temple, marking the cardinal directions. The four principal chapels were founded on these former temple sites and remain in their traditional locations relative to the central plaza and monastery. (see map)

   They are Santa Ana, towards the sierra on the north; La Exaltación (or Capilla de La Cruz) to the south, home of the miracle-working Black Christ, an object of local pilgrimage; Santiago, (or Santiaguito) in the barrio of Los Brujos across a barranca to the east; and El Rosario, a few blocks west of the parish church. These four are the subject of our first post. We will treat the others of note in subsequent posts.

 

Santa Ana

Although one of the most important chapels, the heavily buttressed ermita of Santa Ana is surprisingly modest, although well maintained. A painted stone statue of the patron Saint Anne with the young Mary graces a circular niche in the facade.
   Fragments of murals still cling to the walls, and in the nave stands a carved, painted stone cross from colonial times.

 

images ©Niccolò Brooker

Santa Ana after the 9/19 quake

Despite its sturdy construction, the less substantial espadaña above the facade suffered considerable damage and cracks appeared in the buttresses.

  

La Exaltación  

Although modest in scale with an undistinguished facade, this shrine to the venerated Christ of Exaltation is perhaps the most important and the most visited of the Tlayacapan chapels.
   Again, while there is no word yet on the soundness of the church fabric, the belfry sustained numerous cracks and appears in danger of collapse.

The belfry at La Exaltacion post 9/19

Señor Santiago

This imposing chapel boasts a broad front with angled twin towers and an elegant central espadaña (belfry). Minor damage is reported to the bell gable and at least one tower following the 'quake.

Santiago cracked tower

El Rosario

One of the more elaborate chapels, with an elegant retablo facade and large espadaña. Home of the Virgin of the Rosary.

.... and noted for boisterous Carnival celebrations with dancing chinelos.

earthquake damage at El Rosario was limited to cracks in the gable, with some fallen masonry

text © 2017 Richard D. Perry

color images by the author, Niccolo Brooker and courtesy of Robert Jackson.
 *Check out our most recent update on earthquake damage in Morelos

Please review our other recent posts on the colonial arts of Morelos:  Atlatlahucan; Tlaquiltenango; Oaxtepec; Tlaltizapan; Cuernavaca; Temimilcingo; Tepoztlan;

Mexico State: earthquake damage update

In our previous post we focused on damage to some of the better known colonial buildings in the valley of Mexico.  Here we look at two badly hit churches in lesser known communities of the region, both on the eastern side of Mexico State (EDOMEX)

Tepetlizpa before the 'quake

Located on the lower slopes of the volcano Popocatépetl—which has shown renewed activity since the 9/19 temblor—Tepetlizpa (On the Face of the Mountain) lies close to the Morelos state line and has several churches at risk. 
   We focus here on the handsome, red painted church of San Esteban, whose soaring tower was a victim of the 'quake, crashing to the ground and taking part of the massive facade with it. 

  

San Lorenzo Tlalmimilolpan before the 'quake

Due north, located near the ancient metropolis of Teotihuacan, the village church of San Lorenzo Tlalmimilolpan (Where the Land Slides) also suffered severe cracks to its facade and, more seriously, the nave vault collapsed.

 

text © 2017 Richard D. Perry. images from online sources.

thanks to Felipe Falcón who drew these to our attention.

Mexico. earthquake damage in Mexico city and state

We interrupt our scheduled posts to bring you information on earthquake damage to colonial monuments in Mexico, as it becomes available, with pictures if possible.  Please check again in for further updates.

Mexico City. Metropolitan cathedral, fallen statue of Hope (by Manuel Tolsá)

Colonial monuments in Mexico City (CDMX) and the state (EDOMEX) seem to have survived the 'quake better than in neighboring Puebla and Morelos. But widespread damage has been reported.

 

The great monastery at San Juan Coyoacán sustained relatively minor damage due to falling masonry from the corner tower.  

The recently restored front of the historic nearby chapel of La Conchita shows new cracks.

 

The old gateway at San Bernardino Xochimilco collapsed. The monastery church itself appears intact, although others in the area have not been so lucky.

Sta Maria Malinalco

Large cracks have appeared in the painted cloister of the Augustinian priory of El Salvador Malinalco, and damage is reported in the museum there, as well as in numerous barrio chapels including San Juan, Santa Mónica, la Soledad, San Andrés, San Nicolás, Santa Maria and San Martin.

Milpa Alta (©Robert Jackson)

The belfry of the venerable church of Asuncion Milpa Alta collapsed, taking its bell with it. No word on interior damage.

Milpa Alta (©Robert Jackson)

San Pedro & San Pablo Ecatzingo, fallen cupola

The parish church of San Pedro & San Pablo in Ecatzingo largely collapsed.

 

San Pedro & San Pablo Ecatzingo, before and after the quake 

 
And the churches and chapels of Ocuilan sustained even greater damage:

text © 2017 Richard D. Perry.
images courtesy of Robert Jackson and from online sources

Mexico: earthquake damage in Morelos — update

As we saw in our previous post on the 9/19 earthquake, colonial monuments in Morelos were the hardest hit of any state in Mexico.
Here we bring you updated pictures and information.

 

San Agustin Jonacatepec;             Sto Tomas de Tetelilla, Jonacatepec

Churches in the eastern highlands of the state were the hardest hit. Damage is reported at Jonacatepec, Hueyapan, Jumiltepec and Tetela del Volcán.

Tetela del Volcán (courtesy of Robert Jackson)

Santo Domingo Hueyapan

Jumiltepec (courtesy Robert Jackson) 

Totolapan before the quake (courtesy of Robert Jackson)

Here are images of San Guillermo Totolapan, among the most heavily damaged churches in this area, missing its tower and espadaña.

Totolapan today. (courtesy of Robert Jackson)
 
Santo Domingo Oaxtepec

 

Tepoztlan, damaged towers and mirador (Robert Jackson)

The bell towers at Natividad Tepoztlan also sustained numerous cracks, while the picturesque mirador at the rear of the convento partly collapsed.

Lastly we post this most recent picture of the devastating damage at El Santuario de Tepalcingo.

text @2017 Richard D. Perry. pictures from internet sources and courtesy of Robert Jackson